Simplified Constructions Guidelines For A House Builder In Alluvial Plains

Before starting construction we should choose the contractor-

He should essentially have a Mobile No and should be traceable.

He should have good organizational skills if he has more sites otherwise he should have the capacity to work with his own hand.

He should know how many labors should be there during any day/stage of construction and he must be able to organize that.

He should know what work is to be done and how.

He should anticipate material consumption and convey its requirement to the owner for it 4-7 days in advance.

Check out his slab subcontractor.

Pre-Work Essentials-

These must be ensured to optimize the contractor’s performance on site and to save overall time untangling the sequential constructional web.

ice to authorities- Give at least a week’s notice to authorities about commencement of construction.

Contractors Ensure you have finalized all your contractors so that all things are clear and no contractor passively refers you any other.

Cleaning the site- Site should be cleared of its bushes, weeds, old malba, fauna droppings etc.

Water Connection- Temporary Water Connection is a must at this stage to moisten soil.

Electrical Connection- Required if there is work in night shifts/woodwork/motor.

Temporary Haudi- Water tank to store reserve water. It is economic to make a permanent tiled water tank, which can be covered-up later on. Water Bowser should be ordered if water is not available.

Temporary Store- Should be planned at an optimum position and partitioned for chowkidar to avoid mishandling. Instead of Chowkidar, Building Clerk-cum-Caretaker (Diploma Holder) should be appointed at remuneration of 5000/- pm subject to a max of ½% of building cost.

Raw Material Area- Should be laid where there is enough space for unloading and stacking of raw materials distance and displacement wise nearest to the center of gravity of the proposed construction.

Mortar Platform- Should be laid at ¾th the distance between raw material area and the center of gravity of the proposed construction in temporary brickwork 1:8.

Documents- A copy of the building plan, sanction letter and working drawings, site order book, bill folder packet, pen, pencil, sharpener, eraser, stapler, staples, tape and 3′ plastic laminate roll, should always be present on the site carefully stored with the caretaker.

Materials Required- Bricks (1500-3000) could be easily retrieved later. 1 iron door set with a lock & 3 keys (or 2 door sets if chowkidar’s chamber is separate) worth Rs 700-800 and 4-8 steel chadders/angles/bolts. Pipes (Including flexible), tap, nipple and motor tanker, if water supply is low.

Works till DPC Stage-

Determination of Excavated Volumatrix-v

This is an essential stage since it determines the exact shape of the building’s foundation and can be managed without requirement of any bulk raw material.

Pegs (Burji) & Marks- Pegs are small temporary brick piers in mud mortar to ensure proper centerline distance as specified in Working Drawings. They should be stable and generally placed 2-5′ outside the superstructure/circulation area to avoid its breakage or misplacement. DPC Level or multi-foot vertical reference offset is marked horizontally on internal side of peripheral pegs only to create a virtual horizontally leveled XY Plane on site higher than the would-be stacked excavated soil. Recron 3s (12mm filament length) 125 g per bag of cement is recommended to avoid dampness.

Center-Lining- The contractor shall mark proper centerlines in order to ensure proper spacing between the walls of the house. He must do it after grooving the soil if it is dry and windy since the marks could be lost. Centerlines of the columns should be done in white color and walls in red powder preferably.

Materials required- Holi Colors/Choona/Stone Dust/Brick Choora, Peg (Killi)/12 mm Æ steel bar, 200-1000 [email protected] Rs_____per_____bricks, [email protected] Rs_____per____litres tanker. Rate 24/125 g bag

Offsetting- Lines parallel to the centerlines at a distance to accommodate PCC (after excavation later on) are traced out (trimmed at intersections) marked in a different color. Offsetting distance varies from 9″(Boundary wall in hard soil/rock strata) to 4′(column base for soft/marshy soil as the case may be).

Note- Center-lining and offsetting stage are partially applicable in raft foundations for basement.

Excavation- Excavation is done in two ways. For bulk excavation JCBs are employed to save time. Survey determining soil’s bearing capacity should be done to avoid useless expenditure. Excavation is generally done in stages and soil’s bearing capacity should be determined there also. During excavation, a temporary staircase in and convenient position is dug for approach. The level difference in column footing/9″ wall/4″ wall/boundary wall foundation is adjusted by beveling the level difference 3″ in favor of the deeper excavation at an angle of 35° thereafter.

Stacking of soil- The excavated soil should be put in position where there are larger ([email protected]______per___cft.

Plinth Beam- Before laying plinth beams, RWP, SWP and WWP stacks should be properly erected and fixed with outlet below the plinth beam. Plinth beams are required in case of non-consistency of brickwork below, incase of earthquake-prone zones, unequal soil bearing capacity, or to even out load of the unequally loaded building equally in the foundation. It ranges from 3″x3″ to 18″x18″ in section. Design of the beam including stirrup spacing should be properly adhered to. Single unbroken (least overlap) beam on site is recommended for economy. In other words they should be single entities running across each other. Plinth Beams should be properly tied to columns by cross tie with at least 3 mm Æ wire or welded. Properly tied ply/wood stops (rok) should be employed. Vibrator 10 No Nozzle is recommended to settle the mix. Plinth beam can be assumed as DPC in the manner below.

Materials Required 15 mm (av) Stone Ballast (Rori)@Rs______per___cft, Stone Dust (Badarpur)@Rs______per___cft, Cement (43 Grade OPC)@Rs____per bag and Steel @Rs _____per kg.

Damp Proof Course- It is applied to prevent water seepage inside the wall from the ground. It consists 1″ thick layer of 1:2:4 mortar mixed with 1kg of waterproofing compound per bag cement. Thereafter it is covered with bitumen or tape Crete. Get your measurements checked to extract residual covered area.

Materials Required 15 mm (average) Stone Ballast (Vapsi Rori)@Rs______per___cft, Stone Dust(1½ No)@Rs_____per___cft, Cement (43 Grade OPC)@Rs____per bag, Additive @ Rs____per kg, Bitumen/tapecrete @Rs____per kg & Steel @Rs ___per kg.

NOTE Any feedback during problems encountered, feedback, and autosuggestion are welcome.

Works in superstructure-

Doorframe Erection- Doorframes are erected and checked by contractor with the help of plumb line on both the front and side edges and level checking on the top. Overall, this horizontal leveling is done with the help of siphon equipment at 6′-9½” at the underside of the door panel top (unless otherwise mentioned). Door choukhats should be embedded 1½”-3″ below the finishing floor level preferably with aluminum box containing termite resistant pesticide which can be injected in future by keeping a small rubber tube inside the choukhats groove (pataam).

Erection of Columns- Before erecting the column, verify with plumb line. Column filling should be maximum 3½’ at any stage. Load bearing columns are raised first to complete the frame while framing columns are erected either with iron strips inside or after the walls are constructed leaving a saw-tooth gap. It should be rodded to prevent air gaps. Columns should be cured properly.

Erection of Walls- Walls should be erected in level and plumb line. Brickwork is laid header over stretcher. The top layers or unfinished layers should be in headers only. In 9″ walls stretcher brick should have header joints at ¼ and ¾ lengths and alternate header has joint above and below at ½ it’s length. In other words there should not be any joint over joint at all. Windows should be laid with leveling at sill level mentioned in the window details. 4½” brick walls all vertically alternating stretchers should be completed (1:4 mortar) topped with flat every 4 courses. Holdfasts should be embedded in brick itself. Rori filling should be avoided as far as possible. Circular walls with radius less than 7′-6′ should be constructed in tapered headers. 45° joints should have x-lapped bricks at pointed (225°) end of 1″ beveled brick. Walls partially ending in sloping slabs along it’s length like staircase etc. should have transverse steel bars at 9″-3′ intervals. Bricks adjoining lintels are subject to strain hence should be packed properly. All walls especially west and south faces should be cured with water

Braced Walls- These are complex wall designs consisting of varying wall thickness at various lengths and heights. They are designed to create ambient display spaces, maximize utilizable area of any room, to minimalize furniture, save on structural costs etc. Its foundation’s top course generally equals maximum wall thickness. Headers and stretchers should be carefully placed. Any requirement of the showcase etc should be discussed. All walls especially west and south faces should be cured with water

Materials Required [email protected] Rs_____per_____bricks, Stone Dust (Badarpur)@Rs______per___cft, and Cement (43 Grade OPC)@Rs____per bag.

Lintel Level- Lintels beams are provided to transfer segmental load to load bearing zones. Quality control of mix is to be strictly maintained. Shuttering should be removed only after loading the lintels. Construction of the walls can be carried out in 1:7 mortar and top 2 courses should transit to 1:2 mortar. They should be cured properly.

Pre-Roof Laying Stage

Before laying roof slab, we should ensure the following;

The Shuttering- The Shuttering is tied & leveled properly. The logs (ballis) shouldn’t be particularly supported on broken bricks but on jointed planks (phattas) smaller one resting on the top of the larger one. Before laying shuttering, we should ensure that the ground is leveled, compacted and free from moisture. Alternatively PCC can be laid in advance to prevent this problem.

Materials Required Shuttering Ballies, Phattas, Nails, Rental [email protected]_____per_____per_____.

Contractor’s Response-The slab subcontractor should be cooperative and chalk out day of roof laying only after checking of reinforcement. He should instruct his labor not to throw residual mortar piling up near pad position or arrange steel plates in that area.

Matrix Sequence- Put the beams reinforcement, ceiling designs, and electrical box’s peripheral marks first, get it checked and put the slab reinforcement afterwards. This will avoid cutting of the slab reinforcement (jaal) and incremental wastage of the same in pretext of overlapping. This will also prevent relocation of the jaal when electrician puts his boxes. Alternatively, beam’s lower reinforcement can be laid with stirrups, loose grid laid, and covered with top bars completing beam reinforcement. This works well for naturally smaller beams probabilistically. Beams/Column and Beam/Beam ties should be done with thicker wires (1-2mmf) or welded.

Warn the bar-binder- See whether the alternate cranking of the bars in slabs is properly done otherwise the bars may break. The angle of cranking of the bars should be close to 30°.

Steel @Rs _____per kg. Binding [email protected]_____per kg

ENSURE THAT- The slab subcontractor should be cooperative and chalk out the day of roof laying only after green signal given after checking of reinforcement. He should instruct his labor not to throw residual mortar piling up near pad position or arrange steel plates in that area. The labor of the slab contractor should be organized in getting the raw materials, mixing them, lifting them and putting them in destination. It is the joint responsibility of the contractor and the roof sub contractor to manage the labor.

watch out carefully- The slab subcontractor shall try to cast a slab in his mortar-landing area in pretext of arranging a permanent roof for you. This is to be prevented at every cost. Lay 6-10 Steel Planks there and throw down the accumulated aggregate.

Levels indicating slab thickness should be marked with brick blocks at places. In raised portions of ceiling such as ceiling designs, there should be overlap equal to the slab thickness sloping down at an angle of 30°.

Roof slab casting- Roof mix should contain optimum water for clinker setting. A mix upto 1:2½:4 by volume is recommended in RCC. 60 mm nozzle is recommended for vibration done keeping it parallel to the roof slab and pulling backwards and repeating it every 1′ thereafter.

Materials Required 15 mm (av) Stone Ballast (Rori)@Rs______per___cft, Stone Dust (Badarpur)@Rs______per___cft, Cement (43 Grade OPC)@Rs____per bag and Steel @Rs _____per kg.

Roof slab should be kept under cool water for 7 days. Shuttering can be removed after 21 days.

Plastering Stage:

Pre-Plastering- Before plastering, we must ensure that all the conduits have been laid out in place and at no point the conduits including bends, tees etc, are projected beyond the wall level. There should not be any crossover/adjacency of electric pipe with phone/security/cable pipes/water pipes. Any brick gaps should be filled with tapered brick with narrow edge first thus auto packing the mortar. Brick-RCC joints including lintels should be lapped with chicken mesh. Level of the pipes and switch boxes must be ensured. Roof base /column face, if cast over/in steel plates, should be tucked (taanka) to enable plaster grip. Ceiling plastering is generally done first. Walls should be watered before commencement of plastering. Areas for kutcha plaster should be determined before the plaster itself hence tile levels and cladded areas in exteriors must be identified before application. Skirting level should be decided in advance for plaster to be left. Recron 3s (6mm filament length) 125 g per bag of cement is recommended to avoid honeycombing and crack formation of plaster only.

Before plastering the contractor should determine the finished plaster level so that expensive POP work could be avoided wherever it is not required. He should use plank (phanti) for larger and (gurmala) for leveling application undulations. Plaster should be 12 mm 1:4 for ceiling & 1:6 for interior walls, 18 mm 1:6 for exterior walls. Any tiled/cladded portion should be kutchcha left with broom marks for tiling.

Wig Cap Construction Types Explained

Different Wig Construction types Explained

There are several different constructions methods for wigs and each has its own advantages. Selecting the right wig construction for you will depend on a number of factors such as your budget, environment and personal taste.

Traditional or Wefted Cap:

The most common style found, this cap has a lace piece inside the cap under the crown area, which provides comfort to the wearer. This wig will often have a Skin like piece in the part area, which the hair is attached to so that when looking down on the part area it creates the illusion that you are looking at the wearer’s own scalp. The rear of the wig is made up of Machined wefts and although this style can be a little heavier it allows for good airflow and is quite durable. This style is often described or referred to as a Skin Top Part.


Also a very popular construction method, a capless wig can be a more affordable due to the simpler construction. It also has open machined wefts in the rear of the wig, which makes the wig both light and cool to wear. The hair in the crown area is often teased a little to hide the wefting and this also gives the appearance of a good volume of hair in that area. Because of the way the wig is constructed around the crown area you cannot style the wig to have a definite part. So it is best suited to people who normally don’t have a definite part in their own style. This is commonly more for mature men and women.

Monofillament Cap (Mono Top):

This construction style uses a very light and translucent mesh in the crown area, which the hair is hand tied to. This gives a very realistic appearance, as the translucent mesh takes on the wearers scalp colour when placed on the scalp, so the wearer’s own scalp is visible in the part area while being worn. Mono top wigs are very versatile as the hair can be parted as needed in the Monofillament area (referred to as a free style). Obviously the cost of not only the monofilament mesh but the labour intensive process of hand tying the hair to the mesh makes this one of the more expensive methods.

Lace Front:

As the name suggests the hair in hairline area is attached to a fine lace, which can be used to glue the wig in place creating a very natural look. This cap type requires some knowledge/experience or a professional to cut the lace to fit the wearer, as in some cases the lace piece may be left longer than needed specifically to enable clients to cut the lace to their desired length. The lace area is often attached using a strong glue. The delicate nature of the lace makes it more difficult to maintain than the previously mentioned cap types. This method, like the monotop cap, is more expensive due to the labour involved in its construction however it is not as durable as the monotop. This construction method is mostly used in Ladies wigs

Hand Tied Lace Wigs:

As with the Lace Front and Monofillament Top wigs this construction method requires the hair to be hand tied to the Lace base. As the entire base is made from lace tying the hair individually takes a great deal of time and hence is more expensive. However the lace is softer and tends to mould itself to your head shape and if needed can be more personally fitted so as to achieve a great fit and more realistic look. Many people prefer this as there is no wefting at the rear which can be exposed and hence revealing it is a wig. However the delicate nature of the lace means that it will require more care and tends not to last as long as the other construction types.

This type of wig requires a great deal of experience when putting on the wig and often people who have total hair loss use glues so that the wig stays on for weeks at a time.

In conclusion:

There are pros and cons for each cap construction type. However it is essentially a balance between the natural/realistic look, the cost of the product and the durability. Wefted styles are more durable but do not offer the level of comfort and natural look that Lace caps offer. Wefted styles are also more affordable so replacing the item more regularly ensures that the piece always looks fresh.

In reality if you have no budgetary constraints then custom-made lace wigs would be ideal. In reality the time and bother required to have the item regularly made and the extra care needed can sometimes outweigh the overall benefits as people often want a wig which is easy to care and quick to put on.

The Top 10 Fixtures Most Commonly Damaged During Residential Construction

Construction projects are very complex. There are many different construction workers, subcontractors, plumbers, and electricians working on different areas all at the same time. This, combined with dust, debris, and heavy building materials, often results in damage to expensive home finishes such as cabinets, counter tops, doors, etc. Here is a list of the top ten fixtures that tend to get damaged during the construction process:

1) Cabinets – In residential construction, cabinets are often one of the most expensive and easily damaged fixtures. According to the NAHB New Construction Cost Breakdown*, cabinets cost on average somewhere around $10,395 to install in a new home. They tend to be installed fairly early on in the construction process, so they can be easily damaged by stucco spray, impact from stray tool belts, and general carelessness by subcontractors. A great way to prevent damage to cabinets is to use thick, adhesive foam such as Protecta-Foam to cover it. It is easy to install and protects cabinets against spray, dust, dirt, and sudden impacts.

2) Doors – Much like cabinets, both interior and exterior doors can be quite expensive. On average, interior doors cost homeowners around $2,883 while exterior doors cost $2,150. High end homes often have grand entryway doors that can cost upwards of $10,000. Doors are also installed early in the construction process, and with subcontractors and construction workers coming in and out, sometimes with heavy equipment in hand, dents and dings are a persistent problem. To prevent damage, use reinforced corrugated cardboard or specialty door protection such as Door Guard™. This will prevent dings and scrapes and will help builders deliver a truly brand-new and quality product to homeowners.

3) Bathtubs/Showers – Bathtubs and shower pans are some of the trickiest fixtures to protect from damage in a home. Along with windows, they are the first fixture to be installed; very early in the bathroom construction process. Bathtubs cost on average around $4,346 but can be much more. After the bathtub has already been installed, subcontractors such as electricians, tile installers, and plumbers will all work in and around the expensive tub. Many subs actually do their work while standing inside the bathtub, and some construction workers even use it as a toilet! With so many people working in the area, damage can happen very easily. In conjunction with a company policy that absolutely forbids using the tub as a toilet, builders can use a spray-on tub protector that dries to a rubbery consistency and peels off easily when the project is done.

4) Carpets – Most homes have extensive carpeting, which often shows dirt and debris easily and is more difficult to clean than other types of flooring. The average price of carpet for a home is around$8,363. Foot traffic can track in dirt and dust from subcontractors and can end up requiring the builder to either replace some carpeting or foot the bill for expensive cleaning after the job has already been completed. A great way to prevent damage to carpets is to use adhesive carpet films. These clear films stick to carpeting but must be replaced every thirty days to avoid adhesive transfer. Make sure to check the quality of the carpet film before you buy – anything less than 3mils thick is low quality and may not protect carpets adequately.

5) Hardwood floors – Homeowners love hardwood floors and they are extremely common in new residential construction. On average, hardwood floors cost $1,939 to install in a new home. Floors are subject to a lot that may result in damage, including foot traffic, heavy materials or machinery, dust, dirt, and general debris. It is absolutely critical to take measures to protect hardwood floors during construction. The first thing to consider is how long the floors have been down for. If they are newly installed are still curing or breathing, breathable protection is available. There are many different types of protection ranging from a light duty protective film to recycled cloth to heavy duty builder board.

6) Door jambs – Jambs often get bumped and scratched during construction. Since they are installed very early in the process, each subcontractor coming through with material or installation tools could potentially inflict damage that results in the need for replacement or, at the very least, repair. Jambs typically run around $148 for a home. Many different types of protection for jambs are reusable, so a single box of ten will last through several projects. There are many options ranging from plastic to cardboard to cloth.

7) Stairs – Much like the issue with carpets and hardwood floors, stairs see a lot of foot traffic before the home is completed. The stairs for a typical home generally cost around $1,052 to build and install. Stairs are usually either carpeted or hardwood. With construction workers and subcontractors going up and down to complete their work, stairs really need to be covered to ensure they look perfect when the homeowner moves in. There are several types of stair protection depending on whether the stairs are carpeted or wood. While many general floor protection products can be used to protect stairs, only a few specialized types of surface protection will protect stairs without needing tape that could potentially damage paint.

8) Thresholds – Door thresholds get very dirty and scratched on a construction site. On average, thresholds cost around $213 for a home. While that doesn’t seem like much, the threshold is the entrance to their home, and as such homeowners want to make sure it looks perfect. There are several high quality, 9mils thick protective tapes on the market that do a great job protecting thresholds at a cost-effective price point. If the home is being built in a sunny or hot area, it is important to take the time to invest in protection that has UV protective qualities.

9) Countertops – The countertops of a home are extremely important to the homeowner. Countertops, along with cabinets, are a significant cost of a kitchen remodel and they need to look perfect for the homeowner to be satisfied. At an average price of $5,141, it is important to prevent damage or scratching that may happen from careless subcontractors or construction workers leaving a large, dirty mess of cups, cans, food, liquids, or other junk. Paint drips, mud and stucco splatters, etc. can ruin an expensive countertop. There are two main types of countertop protection; film and adhesive bubble. If deciding to use a film, make sure to invest in a high-quality 3mil film. If heavy-duty protection is needed, Tack Guard™ bubble is the way to go. It is a thick adhesive bubble that sticks to counters without leaving a residue. It looks professional and is a great deterrent to workers looking to place junk on the countertop.

10) Handrails and Banisters – Handrails and banisters are often overlooked during construction. After they are installed they may be subjected to paint and stucco splatter, dust, scrapes from moving, and more. Handrails and banisters in the average home cost around $646. Investing in protection is a sound investment when looking at the potential costs that damage could incur. An effective way to protect handrails is to use an adhesive bubble wrap. Swiftwrap™ is a great product for handrails because the adhesive sticks to itself rather than the handrail. This makes removal very easy and eliminates the possibility of adhesive transfer.

Woodcraft Construction Kit In Most Wanted Top 10 Boys Toys List

In past years the woodcraft construction kit was always a favorite request of youngsters at Christmas and birthdays and would regularly feature as one of the top ten boys toys. As time rolled on, they started to take a back seat to high tech toys and games, regularly failing to even make it into the top 10 boys toys list.

It does look though, the Real Construction Deluxe Workshop is about to reverse that trend as it fires the imagination and creativity of kids across the globe. So what is it about this toy construction set that make children love it?

It’s a given that children’s imagination run wild in those formative years and these particular types of childrens educational toys give the imagination all the tools it will ever need to expand. The projects that are included in the toy construction set are easy enough to complete but challenging enough to stretch their natural abilities. They guide the child, at the correct pace, towards the time when their imagination takes over, when they need to branch out on their own and build what their imagination pictures

You would probably be right to think that computer and video games also drive the imagination into overdrive but they fail miserably on the creativity side of things. Computer and video games can be classed as interactive, but are they really so? Is it not better for a child to interact with other children and their Mom, Dad, brother or sister? True interactivity is where their social skills are first learned and then honed.

The kits come with nineteen pieces of wood like foam, aptly referred to as Kids Wood by the manufacturers, that is easily sawn, drilled, screwed and nailed, and with enough resistance to mimic carrying out the task for real, all in complete safety. Enough tools come with the woodcraft construction kit to keep the children entertained, challenge their minds, enhance practical skills and also engage their creativity. Realistic looking tools like hammers, saws, screw driver, set square and hole borers.

Is it any wonder this particular woodcraft construction kit, the Real Construction Deluxe Workshop, is about to fuel the renaissance of construction toys for kids, putting it firmly back where it belongs, back in the list of the top 10 boys toys.

If your looking for a toy to educate, engage and enhance your child’s natural abilities then this woodcraft construction kit [] will be a perfect choice. Get more information on my blog and make sure you get your child this years top 10 boys toys [] predicted best seller.

Why Choose Concrete Construction

We are always looking for ways that we can add to our home. It might be in adding a specific type of siding or roofing, through updating the landscaping or perhaps by making our driveway smoother and easier to use, but the reality is that we are always on the lookout for something that can help us stand out from the rest.

When it comes to adding a feature that is practical and yet versatile one such option is to incorporate concrete construction elements. Be it a masonry patio, an outdoor fireplace, building a lanai or having an outdoor kitchen, the use for masonry are as numerous and varied as your imagination or budget. And, speaking of budget, because of its durability and ease of maintenance, opting for concrete construction is one of the most budget friendly choices available.

But what is that can be built using masonry? Why, nearly anything you might want! From indoor elements such as gorgeous stained or stamped concrete floors, stairs, or columns to outdoor features like pool side patios, driveways, walkways, garden paths, outdoor kitchens and fireplaces concrete is the perfect medium for all things house related.

5 Ways to Incorporate Concrete Construction:

If you have always considered concrete to be suitable for just the obvious things like driveways or by the pool, you might be surprised to think of it as other home elements. Consider these fun uses of concrete:

  1. Create a custom kitchen counter by using concrete. You can customize everything from the color, the thickness, or even opt to embed personal items in the concrete before it set up for a truly customized look.
  2. Add concrete stepping stones to a garden path Sure you can buy them at your local garden store, but why not create your own shapes, sizes, colors and designs! So much more fun.
  3. Have an outdoor kitchen built, and incorporate concrete elements such as seating, planters, or table tops,
  4. Need help with erosion? Add a masonry retaining wall and keep the dirt and lawn where you want it.
  5. Use concrete to design a raised bed area for your yard

Concrete construction is nothing new, as it has been used in architecture for years. However, we sometimes forget just how perfect it is for so many decorative elements. If you are trying to determine what to do with the appearance of your home or landscape, be sure to consider employing masonry features. You just might be surprised at their versatility. Talk to a local concrete professional today.

Why Modern Home Design Is Oh So Wright

Frank Lloyd Wright was not only considered one of the world’s greatest contemporary architects, but was also one of the most prolific and controversial public figures of his time. He was a writer, art collector, philosopher and visionary, all of which combined to inspire his craft. An outdoorsy child, Wright fell deeply in love with the Wisconsin landscape he explored as a boy. “The modeling of the hills, the weaving and fabric that clings to them, the look of it all in tender green or covered with snow or in full glow of summer that bursts into the glorious blaze of autumn,” he later reminisced.

Widely known for four distinct architectural styles, his work stemmed from his belief that buildings should be made from the land, and benefit the land.

  • Prairie: born out of his belief that we needed fewer, larger rooms that flowed more easily and incorporated low pitched roofs, overhanging eaves, a central chimney, and open floor plans which, he believed, was the antidote to the confined, closed-in look of the Victorian era.
  • Textile: these took on a more linear approach, combined with influences from Mayan architecture.
  • Organic: this drew from natural resources, combined with the influence of Japanese architecture.
  • Usonian: smaller than his sprawling Prairie style residences, these contained little ornamentation and lacked basements or attics. These houses were set up into zones, typically with three areas: living space, small bedrooms, and a kitchen-dining area. Built-in components and furniture allowed homeowners to appreciate the simpler, integrated space Wright intended.

Frank Lloyd Wright was clearly a man ahead of his time. The design of many of his homes once seemed light-years ahead of their time, and people often had trouble understanding his vision, yet almost all of our modern home design and custom home building construction puts to use the ideals he thought so important.

The works of Frank Lloyd Wright are unique. No two homes or buildings look alike. He built according to his vision of what the future would be. He saw the need for homes to be more fluid, more open, more live-able, and less restrained. His architecture both documented a time in history and yet managed to push the envelope with his modern philosophical approach to the future of building.

Wright stood for clean lines and simplicity. He believed that a well-built building complemented its environment and surrounding. He disliked the intricate detail and fussiness of the architectural styles that preceded him. His ideals, words and foresight continue to be used as inspiration for modern home design and custom home builders. The echoes of his style are evident in many of the contemporary homes we see designed today.

House Extensions – Things You Need To Know

Rather than moving to a new house, every budget conscious homeowner desires to extend or upgrade their existing home to save both time as well as money. Home additions are a perfect choice for increasing your living space and adding property value. A home extension substantially increases the functional space inside your home and undoubtedly increases the property’s resale value to a great extend. However, before you jump into a final decision, here are some important points to consider regarding a home extension procedure.

Is it a wise choice?

Are you looking forward to an extra bedroom, a new living area for the whole family to enjoy or for a home office? The first and foremost step is to verify the viability of a house extension procedure in your property, no matter whether it is a single storey extension or a two (double) storey extension. Always keep in mind that only a well-planned sensible design can be cost-effective and provide you the likely benefits. Before you proceed, it is also necessary to recognize the need of a planning permission and verify whether your property is located in a conservation area. If so, it is highly recommended to seek advice from your nearby building control authority and do a research about the legal procedures related to the extension work.

Next, take time to find an answer for “how much does an extension cost?” For this, your exact requirement has to be analyzed in detail. Based on your need, you can either choose a rear extension or a side extension procedure. A single storey extension, either done on the side or rear portion, is comparatively cheaper and it requires only minimal disruption. However, if you need more ventilation, then a double storey extension is considered as more beneficial. An extra investment is often required when you adopt additional painting or interior design services. Also, make sure to implement adequate safety measures, before your home remodeling job, to avoid unexpected costs.

As there are multiple possibilities in a home or kitchen extension project, it is extremely essential to find a reputable professional who utilize highly sophisticated construction methods for a hassle free home improvement job. Such professionals inspect your site and suggest the most suitable design pattern, based on your specific requirements, budget and the building’s pre-existing conditions. Moreover, they adhere to essential quality standards and offer adequate work warranty for the job undertaken to ensure utmost customer satisfaction.

Top 5 Qualities of Landscape Pathway Materials

You can easily find your way to a better yard with the right landscape pathway materials. If you are looking for new solutions for your outdoor area, then you will also want to consider the qualities for the hardscape you are working with. This will make a difference in how you approach your next landscape project while ensuring that you have the right options for your pathway. Following are the top five qualities to look for with the materials.

1. Water Resistant. A common mistake that many make with landscape pathway materials is the water erosion that occurs. Often, jointing sand, stabilizer for aggregate pathways and other materials don’t have resistance to water. You want to make sure that you have the materials that allow you to maintain the pathway for a longer time frame.

2. Durability. Nothing is better than a durable pathway. You not only want to find stronger paving stones or aggregate. It is also important to make sure that your jointing sand or stabilizer is durable with the pathway. This will assist with a long – lasting solution for your pathway.

3. Low Maintenance. Even though all landscape pathway materials claim to have the best options for maintenance, they often erode quickly or don’t provide you with the correct solutions to upgrade your path. You want to find materials that allow you to replace sections of your pathway or to find solutions that are based on long lasting formulas.

4. Easy to Apply. Some of the landscape pathway materials are mixed with chemicals and other materials that are not compatible with aggregate or paving stones. You want to find options that are natural and are able to easily mix and work with the applications for your pathway.

5. No Chemical Residue. For paving stones and other unique materials, there is often a white haze left behind from poly haze. If you are applying specific pathways, then you want to make sure it won’t leave behind chemicals and white residue. Environmentally friendly solutions with the landscape pathway materials you are looking for will provide you with different levels of compatibility for your hardscape.

Upgrade your outdoor area without problems. If you are looking for different options, then landscape pathway materials can assist you with the desired options. There are a variety of alternatives that you can look into, all which will provide you with high quality, long lasting materials for your next hardscape project.

Enjoy All the Advantages of Affordable Venetian Marble

If spending got in the way of acquiring the super marble and granite looks and feel, read on about Venetian marble. Since recycling is everywhere in our fight to preserve the environment, salvaging natural marble brings us this solution to many dreams. Instead of the rather expensive cultured marble and granite, why not opt for the man-made Venetian marble?

How is Venetian marble made?

The reprocessed marble undergoes a procedure of pressing and heating with polymers and pigments. The result is a very strong, non-porous surface. Made of slabs in the factory, fabricators cut and polish it, ready for installation. You get VM in several attractive colors and enchanting edges for a fairyland feeling. Designs come to life in dreamy settings!

Among the Venetian marble, advantages are easy installations with little maintenance headaches, resisting bacteria and staining. Immense durability makes it appropriate for floors and shower enclosures, backsplashes and countertops.

Installations without seams

Without 48″ restrictions, Venetian marble is the first 60″ wide manufactured marble. With few seams, install it quickly and easily with little waste. Don’t you desire the most environmentally sustainable product?

Attractive color options too

Natural rock comes with many surface pits and marks from the wild underground through sustained earthly processes. Engineered stone is quite regular in coloration and surface consistency through the slab. Seams are minimal as a result and they suit applications where color regularity is preferred. Tibetan Beige and Coco Emperador are popular choices unless you opt for the more traditional colors like the Vanilla Sky and Melange.

How to maintain Venetian marble?

Compared to the conventional tile and natural stone surfaces, These marble premium surfaces present no maintenance issues. Simply wipe with wet cloth and even sponge and paper towels would suffice. If heavy stains occur, you need to use a mild soap. A neutral pH cleaner could also be used. A nonabrasive scrub pad will preserve the surface and result in many years of service with no hassles. A marble sealer is advised for additional protection. This marble being very durable, use it for backsplashes and countertops to provide the smart marble and granite look with a long life.

Venetian marble would introduce a great natural stone fantasy into the home or business at reasonable expense. Since many options exist, some are bound to meet your expectations, fancy, lifestyle, and budget. Survey our vast range of premium surfaces to make the best decisions.

10 Things You Have To Know About Wooden Garages

Wood structures are pretty much the hottest fad in the real estate world right now. Log cabins are growing in popularity, backyard sheds made of lumber are hot ticket items and gazebos are an obsession. Even wooden garages are a big hit and you may be considering getting your own to take advantage of the many benefits it can provide.

Here are ten things you should know about wooden garages before you buy.

You Have To Regularly Keep It Clean – This is a big deal and one too many people ignore. Dirt may just slide off of metal siding but it can cause damage to wood. When you get a wooden garage you are committing to keeping it clean and maintained. That will keep pests out of the corners, or from burrowing into the lumber.

Staining Is Necessary – Another element to maintaining your wooden garage is staining it. This has to be done every three to five year to maintain the integrity and health of the lumber. If you don’t do it the logs will crack, blanch and possible let in pests like termites. The wood may also become warped or even rot from the inside. Luckily it isn’t an expensive investment, is simple to do yourself and there are many environmentally friendly chemicals to choose from for the tasks.

It Is Prone To Pests – As mentioned above, wood is attractive to pests. Termites, spiders, ants, rats, mice, even racoon..they like the wood. For the most part this won’t be an issue as long as you stain your wood, keep the garage clean and look out for cracks. But if you find a hole you should fill it as quickly as possible to avoid an infestation.

Materials Can Be Expensive – Looking at the cost of building a wooden garage you may be shocked by the discrepancy in cost when compared to metal structures. The other side to that argument would be how sturdy lumber tends to be, as well as how attractive it is. People who buy wooden structures are essentially investing in the property. When you look at it that way you will see why the cost can be worth it.

Pre-fabs Are More Cost Effective – If the price tag on a custom built wooden garage is a deal breaker it may be time to consider an alternative. Pre-fabs are much more inexpensive, fitting into most budgets. They come in multiple sizes with various features, such as automatic doors, or even manual double doors for a more rustic look. These will average between $1500 and $5000 for most models, though more complex garages can be more.

You Can Fix Them Yourself – This is a big plus for a lot of folks who don’t want to have to turn to a contractor to fix future problems. Wood is easier to work with than metal and you can replace whole logs if you have to. Any lumber seller, from hardware stores to wood based recycling centers, can help you find the right size, color, shape and weight to make a repair. But in many cases you can just to small patch jobs to take care of problems. If you maintain your garage properly it might never even come up. On the other hand, if you do need someone to come and fix it for you it isn’t hard to find contractors who can deal with wood. Metal repairs can cost more.

Damp Can Ruin The Wood – It can’t be said enough, you have to stain your wooden garage regularly! Staining seals the wood and keeps moisture out of the lumber. When the stain begins to breakdown it will no longer repel water. The damp will push its way into the logs and start to rot it from the inside. Warping will form, pushing the logs out and causing gaps where the wood has shrunk. Heat will make it expand again, exacerbating the problem. Cracks will form in the surface, letting in more damp and in some cases various pests. All it takes is a bit of rain when the garage isn’t properly fitted and you will have to replace full logs. Make sure you prevent it!

They Can Be Used as More Than Garages – Some people are choosing these structures, but not for their cars. Wooden garages make great sheds, extra rooms and even guest houses. Depending on the size you select (and that of your car) you might be able to share the space for multiple purposes. All it takes is a bit of imagination and you can turn it into anything you like. Because of the low price it might also act as an alternative to more expensive structures you were considering putting on your property.

They Improve The Look Of Your Property – Let’s face it, metal garages are ugly. They take up too much space, make weird noises in storms and are just an eyesore. Wooden garages look great, have a classic feel and are popular for a reason. If you want to make your property look as good as possible, especially if you are considering a sale in the future, this is a great step to take. Throw that metal garage in the trash heap where it belongs.

They Can Increase The Value Of Your Home – This is one of the biggest reasons people choose to go with wooden garages. There are many different upgrades you can do to increase the value of your home. Some people put in swimming pools, others go with guest houses in the backyard. Others put in a rock garden or install solar panels. Wooden garages are a practical upgrade the looks good while being fully functional. That gives it an edge to many of the other improvements, especially given the lower cost.